Why court dress
Both politicians and merchants found it essential to demonstrate to potential supporters that they enjoyed the favor of the court, to see their projects succeed. Even as the political importance of the court began to wane, there was always social advantage to be gained and special efforts continued to be made within the royal household to regulate the numbers and social standing of those attending.
It was necessary for any new aspiring attendee to locate someone who had already been presented, to serve as his or her sponsor. In seventeenth-century France, a set of rules called "les honneurs de la cour" were drawn up. A French lady craving admittance had to prove a title of nobility extending back to Since the eighteenth century, there is evidence that this system could be abused: court officials could be bribed to gain admittance, the services of a sponsor could be bought, and sometimes the monarch himself would override the rules allowing a person of humble birth to attend as "une faveur de choix.
The Spanish court was the earliest to actively promote a distinctive court dress from the sixteenth century. All courtiers, state officials, and those attending court had to wear a doublet and close-fitting knee breeches, made of silk or wool in a somber color, worn with the stiff "gorilla" collar of white linen.
Eventually, the practice was adopted throughout the Spanish Empire, in Austria, and certain Catholic German states. By the mid-seventeenth century, Louis XIV was concerned with promoting himself, the prestige of the French court, French fashion, and culture. In he devised a system whereby fifty of his closest friends and supporters were allocated by special warrant a specific court dress.
It was composed of a blue coat called a "justaucorps a brevet," lined with red and trimmed with gold and silver galloon braided trimming with scalloped edges , to a degree not allowed within earlier sumptuary legislation. The outfit was completed with a waistcoat, knee breeches, red-heeled shoes, and a sword. When the dauphin reached his majority, a brown coat similarly embellished was devised as the regulation dress for his household. In about , Louis XIV, perhaps with his brother, Philippe, duc d'Orleans and his wife, established the "grand habit" as a court dress for women.
This dress had a stiff-boned bodice with a low, round neckline and cap sleeves trimmed with tiers of ruffles called "engageantes. This was often richly decorated. For their first presentation to the French king the "grand habit" had to be black. Subsequently, colored dresses could be worn. By about the petticoat was worn supported on large side hoops. A train replaced the skirt. French court dress was adopted with small variations as court dress throughout Europe. By it had even become the regulation dress at the Spanish court for all but the most formal occasions.
In Great Britain the "grand habit" or "stiff bodied gown" was worn by members of the royal family and their immediate circle for royal weddings and coronations. However, by about , the mantua was the customary dress worn by ladies attending court. It had an unboned bodice and full skirt.
The neckline was cut square, and the bodice was closed in front with a separate stomacher. The elbow-length sleeves were finished with tiers of ruffles. The skirt was lifted back to reveal a petticoat worn beneath and by about served as little more than a train. By the petticoat was supported with large side hoops.
Ladies attending court in were generally wearing ostrich feathers as a hair ornament, and in Horace Walpole notes that they were considered "de rigueur. Men's court dress in Great Britain was also simpler than its French counterpart, comprising a coat, waistcoat, and knee breeches, often made of fine silks and velvet, and frequently lavishly embellished with embroidery.
The "grand habit" saw its demise in with the French Revolution. However, by a new official dress had been devised by Jean-Baptiste Isabey for French government officials, as well as Napoleon, his family, and inner circle.
For ladies a court train alone was retained, worn over fashionable evening dress. The second half of the eighteenth century had seen many European courts beginning to devise special uniform liveries to be worn by members of the royal family and royal circle. In France, Louis XV established a green and gold costume as "uniforme des petits chateaux. His son George III in was responsible for the introduction of the Windsor uniform with its blue coat and distinctive red facings.
It was also in that Gustavus III of Sweden put together a comprehensive order of court uniforms not only for his family and household, but also encompassing government officials, military officers, legal officials, and even university staff and students.
They were of a consciously archaic style having its origin in seventeenth-century fashion, a period associated with Swedish greatness. For questions about this guide, Feel free to contact me directly or Please leave this field empty. Phone: Text Us. Home » Resources » What To Wear to Court I can tell from experience that yes, it definitely does matter what you wear to court.
Exercise outfit. Anything sexy or too dressy — tight tops, short skirts, sequins, slinky tops, revealing tops. Sundress or strapless dress. Crop tops. Cover your belly button! Any top with spaghetti straps. T-shirts especially ones with beer, drug or sexual references. Athletic attire, especially baseball caps. Jeans, unless they are the only long pants you own. Clothing that is too small or too large.
Clothing that reveals your underwear. Shorts or cut-offs. Footwear: Flip-flop sandals. Athletic shoes. High-heel spikes. Open-toed shoes. Lots of jewelry, especially if it makes noise when you move. Sunglasses, unless medically prescribed. The Delhi High Court Monday exempted advocates appearing before it and at all District Courts in the national capital from wearing black gowns, coats and sherwanis during hearings via video conferencing.
Last week, Supreme Court lawyers were exempted from wearing gowns and coats while attending virtual hearings in view of experts claiming that there was a greater possibility of the virus being spread through robes. The Delhi High Court and the trial courts have been hearing only urgent matters through video conferencing due to Covid So far, no dress code was prescribed for lawyers or judges attending virtual hearings.
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